This holiday season, try something new by enjoying the traditional celebratory drinks of old. In addition to the tasty flavors of each beverage, if you read on you’ll also learn some interesting history about the creation and purpose of each drink. From mulled wine to hot buttered rum to egg nog, each libation has its own unique story.
While we may not mix and serve these drinks exactly as they were several centuries ago, we can wholly enjoy their modern interpretations. Each was meant to be taken as a toast to one’s health; a tradition we still celebrate, especially during the winter holidays. The most important ingredient for all of these concoctions, however, is that they be shared merrily with friends and family. So mix your drink of choice, pour generously and offer well wishes to all. Cheers!
Several years ago, I was on a business trip to Germany in early December and spent a few evenings enjoying the tastes, aromas, and drinks found in Hamburg’s Christkindlmarkts. Each village, town, and city will have their own version of this tradition. The two oldest are the Bautzen market founded in 1384 and Vienna’s “December Market” founded in 1294. In each city, a square will be occupied with stalls selling all types of Christmas regalia, traditional holiday foods and bakery goods, and hot or warm drinks. When you enter the town square, your senses are overwhelmed by the aromas floating on the cold winter air of hot roasting chestnuts, fir and pine wreaths, and spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, and allspice. These aromas will blend with those of sausages on the grill, roasting chicken and pork, the rich aroma of chocolate and the barnyard odors of sleigh horses. Somehow, they blend together to create a pleasant mix. Nightly, people will come to their Christkindlmarkt to enjoy conversations, laugh and sip on steaming cups of Gluhwein. Gluhwein is also known as mulled wine, Glogg, Vin Chaud, Wassail, and Negus. Cousins of these culinary drink treats are the Nog – eggnog, grog, Eierpunsch, Cocquito, Auld Man’s Milk, and maybe the Japanese drink of Tamagosake (egg, sugar and sake to cure hangovers).
The grandfather of all holiday drinks is Hippocras. If you have never heard of it, do not worry – most people have not. Hippocras was the drink that the Greeks consumed in December to brighten the season. Hippocrates made some of his remedies using wine, as the base, herbs to heal or use as a restorative, and honey to make them taste good. To this he added cinnamon, ginger, lavender, cloves pepper, nutmeg, marjoram, cardamom and grains of paradise. There are some powerful herbs, bitters, and spices in this drink. This drink- Hippocras came to be what we know today as Gluhwein, Glogg, hot butter rum, and eggnog.
Hippocras and the glogg were made to give a reprieve from the harshness of their daily life. They were also consumed for health reasons. Their water was dirty and could kill you. Combining mashed fruit with water in a pot and bringing it to temperature with alcohol and the heat would kill anything in the water. So when people would drink their glogg and wish you good health – they meant it! They were also made to be used at significant events such as harvest time and the coming of the winter solstice. In their celebration of the winter solstice, people made drinks using fruit from their trees. They would pour a glass of drink and set it out at night to pay their respect to the trees and vines. A toast would be made and /or a song would be sung and ask for the vines and leaves of the trees to return in the spring. This practice evolved into the expression of “Waes Haeil” or to your good health and eventually into wassail – another drink! Could this activity also be the origin of caroling?
Today hot butter rum, eggnog, and mulled wine are served around the holidays. I have selected a few recipes for you to try this holiday season that reflect the drinks origins.
Mulled Wine
2 oranges
1 lemon, juice and zest
10 whole cloves
10 Black peppercorns
2 cardamom pods
4 whole star anis
2 cinnamon sticks
½ teaspoon nutmeg
¾ to 1 cup of brown sugar (sweeten to taste)
2 – 750 ml bottles of dry red wine (avoid Cabernet – too tannic)
¾ cup brandy
Zest the citrus and squeeze. Add all ingredients in a large pot stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Simmer for 30 minutes to an hour. It will reduce in volume. Pour mulled wine through a fine sieve into tempered glass of coffee mugs.
Hot Buttered Rum
1 stick unsalted butter, soften
2 cups of brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon of nutmeg
pinch of ground clove
bottle of dark rum
boiling water
In a bowl, cream butter, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, and salt. Refrigerate until almost firm. Spoon 2 tablespoons of butter mixture into 12 small mugs. Pour 3oz of rum into each mug. Top with boiling water, stir well, and served.
Eggnog
6 large eggs
¾ cup of sugar
1 ½ cups of Brandy
½ cup of Rum
4 cups of milk
4 cups of cream
½ cup of icing sugar
Nutmeg to sprinkle
Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs. Beat the yolks slowly while simultaneously adding sugar; do this until mixture is pale and golden. Now slowly add the Brandy and rum, then beat in the milk and half of the cream.
Set aside until just before serving, then whisk the egg whites until stiff and fold them into the eggnog mixture. Whip the remaining cream and icing sugar until thick. Top each glass of eggnog with whipping cream and a shake of nutmeg. Makes 8 servings.
If you feel uneasy about eating raw eggs, then leave the egg in 150 degree F water for about 3 minutes to pasteurize the egg. 150 degree water allows you to just about leave your finger for a second in the water before burning it, make sure your water doesn’t have bubbles. While this process won’t completely kill all the possible bacteria in the egg, it will limit your exposure.
This holiday, when you make your holiday toast, thank a Greek.
Enjoy your holiday and remember to drink responsibly. Here’s to your health!
Culinary Capers At CVC 